Tutorial - Folk Art Glass and Tile medium as a brush on primer
by Slorak ~ January 2nd, 2009Years ago i learned about clear priming from a yahoo painting group. I use it along with conventional spray primer but I must say that when done correctly I really like the folk art brush on primer. Its biggest benefit is that it dries very tight to the model and does not obscure details.
Before I get into the step by steps let me give you a work of caution:
Do not pre-mix your solution 50/50 with water. I did this initially and found that as the bottle got to the end there wasn’t a true 50/50 mix of water and this caused the glass and tile medium to crack and create a crackle effect. I did try running it through an airbrush as a primer but caution there as well. I found in areas that didn’t get good coverage it crackled a bit as well. Otherwise if you want speed you can try running it through an airbrush.
Step 1
On your paint pallete pour an equal amount of the Folk Art Glass and Tile medium and water. It should be as close to a 50/50 mix as you can.
Step 2
Add a drop or 2 of black ink. You can add more especially if you want a dark primed figure. I have achieved a nearly black prime after adding more black ink. This is to taste so experiment. Another thing you can do is apply a second coat after it dries to achieve a darker color.
Step 3
Mix the ink and the glass and tile medium together until it is well blended. Then taking a good sized brush go ahead and apply it to the model. You are trying to acheive a nice coverage but don’t really want it to pool. It can dry fairly quickly to the touch so it is easy to apply a second layer or finish priming a figure if you are holding them.
It is important that you wait at least 24 hours though 72 hours is recommended on the label for the Glass and Tile Medium to fully cure. I have painted as early as 24 hours and haven’t had any problems but will generally wait the full 72 hours before painting if I can just to ensure a proper bond.
Primed figures
As you can see in the pictures - it covers well and you can definitely tell what is primed and what isn’t. It doesn’t obscure details, and leaves the recesses dark. If you choose to add more ink you can get a nearly black prime so for those that like to keep things dark (especially) where you can’t reach as well with a paint brush) this method should work well for you. If you prime several in batches you should be able to keep enough available figures to allow yourself to wait the full 72 hours for the primer to cure.